Friday 28 December 2012

Some from ometepe

Boooosh















Flames were gulfing

I'm getting behind on this blog again.

I'm typing this post sitting in a cab on our way out of Granada again. We're just going out to the edge of town to hitch hike our way back to the border of costa rica.

The rest of the gang are all flying home tomorrow and I'm continuing on to spend new years in samara, costa rica with some new and old friends. We spent our last week riding chicken busses, at volcanic music festivals, hiking waterfalls, adopting a Canadian, hanging out with a monkey, peace sticking, putting out fires scootering to rodeos, scaring German girls, surfing volcanoes, making fun of tourists, meeting some puppies and and raccoon and general debauchery with local and world citizens.


Magma fest.

We met a girl working at the bar at our hostel in Granada who told us of a festival on ometepe island for the solstice/ end of the world. Perfect! We planned on heading there anyway and what better way to spend the end of the world than on an actively volcanic island, one with a history of mayan settlements and with a landscape dotted with ancient stone carvings. I imagined a sleepy little town to come Alive with festivities, Mayan celebrations, dancing on the streets, locals from across Nicaragua to be out and about and celebrating life and the possible end of it. What we found out however, from two girls from Frankfurt and Berlin, respectively; just finished with their volunteer work in Granada; was that magma fest was the first ever electronic music in Nicaragua, a beer sponsored, wristband affair with security guards, unculminative house music and more white people than I've seen since leaving Canada. It was like a club downtown Toronto suddenly got placed on a beach and just kept on fist bumping. I ran into our friend from the hostel in the middle of the night and she looked at me wide eyed and says, "there's a lot of coke and speed going around, I'm pretty coke and speeded up, hold on, I've gotta go do something!"And with that she was gone, never to be seen again.
It was a strange place to find yourself in the middle of your travels, when all you expected was some nice hikes and to take in the beauty of the place. The island is actually being penned as a sort of biological reserve to attract that sort of Eco tourism that it deserves. The whole party traveller cheap hostel mentality is scarce on the island and that's how it should be in my opinion. The festival was bad in the sense that it directly contradicts that mentality and a lot of locals on the island are not too impressed, the fear that it could set ometepe up as a party destination is a legitimate concern. it will be interesting to see what it will lead to in future years.

Bur despite all that we still got more liquored up and danced harder then anyone else at the place. We had a great fucking time with our German friends from the ferry and our aforementioned friend shine. You guys are amazing!
Also we snuck in and didn't pay for the party or camping, take that magma fest! The budget prevails.

Our next days on the Isla were amazing, we said goodbye to our friends and headed to a beautiful little town on the southern end called Merida. We stayed at a gorgeous hostel, camping for 3 bucks a night. We met a few lovely young families
And enjoyed The biggest buffet I've ever had in my life, after that we were invited to a post graduation party down the street and the whole town was there! There was a dj with a big old sound system, women selling drinks and smokes from buckets behind a folding table and if you had to piss it was the forest or nothing. The dj set up on a basketball court and all the dancing was there, we had fun salsa dancing with some local hunnies, getting harassed by the town drunks and enjoying the actual humanity of the whole affair, it was an actual community come together to celebrate and have a good time. There was young nica boys grinding up on girls, shy girls asking us to dance and one CRAZY salsa dancer taking these girls for a spin, they could barely keep up! It was a stark contrast to magma fest the night before an we loved it.

We hiked volcan Maderas the next day, well halfway, to a beautiful waterfall spilling down from a hundred feet above us into a little pool we could swim in, there was even a rainbow, it was that fuckin beautiful. On the hike we met zac. We became fast friends and he was soon as important a member in our group as any of us. And he was Canadian, a maritimer! We talked about magma fest, he was there as well and ended up getting a lot of his stuff stolen, iPod, camera, money, his first aid kit? But he never complained however and really had an admirable character. Reminded me to just keep trucking. Don't let individual shitty experiences take away from the whole, not even a little.

On our way back to the hostel we stopped to eat at a little restaurant, not worth mentioning except it was some of the best fucking chicken we ever ate, and spaghetti.. and one of the owners of the place saw us jamming on our ukes and pulled a dusty old beaten up guitar out Of the closet, spent 45 minutes tuning the damn thing then blew our minds with some amazing Spanish guitar an a awesome rendition of la bamba. Just wild.

Zac stayed at our hostel that night, already a good enough friend to crash in out tents and the next morning we were off, a two and half hour drive across the island on a cramped sweaty chicken bus to the port town of moyagulpa. There we rented motorbikes and spent the afternoon driving around the island, where we stumbled upon a rodeo. A genuuuine Nicaraguan rodeo. There were wasted old men fighting with each other as much as the bulls, young kids taking some risks with some seriously pissed off bulls and a pizza truck!
The actual spectacle was super cruel and actually pretty rough to watch, those bulls were being treated very poorly, people throwing garbage at them, anything they could to Piss them off. I think rodeos are a little romanticized. Despite that it was fun and we left feeling like we saw something you don't see everyday.

We took the bikes back eventually to catch the ferry that the guy who rented us the bikes told us left at 530, but of course it was gone at four and he tried to get us to stay at his hostel. Hustler! But it turned out as a blessing because after we ditched him we found a great place to stay, but the story gets weird.

We arrived and found two other friends we had net on the hike, kiia and sophie, two girls from Finland and Quebec. Also the hostel owner had monkeys, capuchins, one Of which was as friendly as any dog and I crossed a check off my bucket list. Playing with a fucking monkey!!! I then had a shower and was walked in on by some Pervy old local dude and that was gross.

Anyway This was Christmas eve so we all went out for dinner but when we returned we found the entire back part of the hostel on fire! It was a Sort of cabinas structure made with a roof of banana leaves That housed the hammocks, which is of course where i was set up to sleep that Night. There were about forty people back there throwing buckets of water on the flames and I had a heart attack finding all my stuff which had been scattered in the chaos. I didn't lose anything expensive or important luckily and eventually the flames went out and we returned to the festivities. Also I got an upgrade to the "master suite" . double beds and a private bathroom, not too shabby. The rest of the night was a blast, hanging with our new friends and salsa dancing at the club next door.

Anyway...
Ive typed a lot on a small keyboard and I'm ready To go eat.

We split into groups this morning, saying goodbye in case we didn't see each other again; Dylan ad Janny fly out of San jose and ross and Kveshe from Liberia, quite a distance from each other; and we successfully hitch hiked across the country to the border. However I made a last minute decision to stay in Nicaragua one more night, I turned into San Juan del sur instead of heading to the border, so I said goodbye to Ross an Kveshe and and I'm goin to surf tommorow and head to costa tommorow night.
It's been some of the best days of my life traveling with you all and I'll miss it dearly.
Pura vida bitches.

I'm ready for chapter two.


Saturday 22 December 2012

Pictures from nica.















Peace sticks, hippy dicks

We travelled from Granada to rivas yesterday to catch a ride to San Jorge to catch a boat to the isla ometepe, a giant island in lake Nicaragua formed by the two enormous volcanoes that formed its beauteous landscape. On the ferry we were privileged to meet shine..... A post hippy new wave surfer guru from California. We ended up hopping onto the same chicken bus from the port town mayagulpa to charco verde, where they were holding the first ever electronic music festival in Nicaragua.... For the solstice/ end of the world party. Shine was a great source of amusement and bewilderment with his dub step beat boxing, robes , space dancing and positive energy. This morning as we were leaving he asked if we'd like to play peace sticks.... And our lives were changed forever. INNER PEACE, OUTER PEACE , WORLD PEACE.

Check the link to see for yourself.
www.peacesticks.com

Thursday 20 December 2012

yolt

Hello all, 
I've been super lazy about this blog... coming on two weeks and this is the first post... what can i say..
Im currently sitting at hostel liberdad in Granada, Nicaragua. A beautiful spanish colonial town with brightly painted buildings, a maze of a market to lose yourself in and 8 dollar bottles of rum. for the big ones..
but getting here, i arrived in san jose on the 9th after a fairly gruelling but enjoyable night at the Buffallo airport having wheelchair races and ukelele jams with janny and Dylan. getting to san jose we avoided the hustlers and taxi drivers and spent a dollar on the public bus getting to our hostel. Hostel pangea, the greatest place to meet white people in costa rica. Later in the evening Leo arrived and the trip sort of officially began. We didnt like san jose, big, dirty, fairly sketchy and catered to the backpacker party life, so we got the fuk outta dodge as early as we could the next day. We hopped on a bus taking us to Calieri, A sort of stopover point on the way to the boat which would take us to Tortuguero, a little village on the northern Carribean coast famous for its national park and the Turtle watching. We got stuck in Calieri for the night though and slept at Hotel tropical. Calieri was actually a great town however and we enjoyed ice cream, playing pool, fohtees and spanish zoolander.
I also started my painting career, one a day for the duration of the trip...
 We got up bright and early in Calieri,especially since our alarms were set at 430 instead od 530.
We caught the bus to the boat dock and caught the boat to Tortueguero. it leads down a meandering river through thick rain rainforest, muddy banks where fast floppy earred cows sit and soak up the sun and sleepy little villages where the fisherman are in their boats for the morning catch. pretty fucking serene.
We spent two days relaxing in Tortuguero, swimming eating, playing pool and cards aquainting oursleves with the local liquor and local dogs. the four legged and two legged kind. Our Amigo Alejandro showed Dylan and I one those green tree frogs with red eyes... coooool

anyway im getting bored of writing so il just some it up.

After tortuguero we headed across the country, 9 hours later and we were in Liberia to meet  kvesche... Liberia is nice, a sort of Spanish version of any charming North American town. it has skate shops, corparate food chains and even a supercenter. Owned by Walmart of course, we actually learned that most grocery stores in Costa Rica and ALL grocery stores in Nicaragua are owned by walmart, and Pepsi owns the beer.  HAIL THE CORPORATE STATE..omnipresent bro.
 we headed to the Liberia airport the next day and picked up ross. fresh from his first plane ride ever and looking very travel savy.
after negotiating with a taxi driver we made the right choice...
TAXI DRIVER> friends, where you going?
GANG> to the beach, Tamarindo
TAXI> oh, its expensive, the bus is 6 dollars each
GANG> ...i dont think so...
TAXI> FOR you, i drive, only 20 dollars each!
Not the best hustler weve met.

We made it to Tamarindo, a coastal surf town... pretty awful, only tourist culture, expensive food, the hostels wouldnt let us camp.. , but we found one litlle restaurant with great cheap food, all pitched one bed at a dorm, stashed our stuff there and just camped right on the beach, also we surfed some gnarly waves and somehow convinced the hostel we were all staying there and abused the benefits that came with it, free drinks , free pool and free wifi baby.

We rented a car out of Tortuguero and headed to to PLayas Naranja, A beach in in national park Santa Rosa. It was beautiful, driving through the costa rican countryside while the sun sets, watching the smoke from the Sugar cane fires. The beach itself was also unreal, we arrived at the national park at night, we had to drive down this beaten up dusty old road for 11 km, ruining the suspension on the poor little daihatsu 4x4 until we get to the beach, took over an hour! 11 km!. We arrive finnally are literally the only ones there! except for the hundreds if not thousands of creepy little black and purple crabs. We set up our tents and then hit the beach, listening to music while sharing a 40 of bacardi, couldnt be better.
The next day was much the same, the best surf ive ever sene, too bad we had no boards, my therma rest had to do. Its worth mentioning how hilariously unprepared for camping we were. We sort of just bought random groceries the day before, we had a little fire and were cooking beans in the can on this dusty old grill, weird half cooked hotdogs and corn tortillas, and sand. we only had one little knife and it was used for everything, spreading jam, cutting fruit. stirring beans. Also while heading  down the road into the national park we realized we had no beer! so we tturned around asnd drove to some little village that was nearby, we ate a good dinner and ended up buying a bottle of rum from the bar. somehow we lost ten dollars in the transaction, the old lady shiested us for sure. 
Playing the sweet old granny card...

We headed out early the third morning, stopped to swim at a waterfall next to a volcano where we cliffed jumped into crystal clear, cool, torquoise water (no big deal), dropped the rental off in Liberia and then caught the next bus to the nicaraguan border... Which was one hell of an experience. Again we arrived at night and realized there was no more buses travelling to Granada, so our options were spend the night at the border, or pay a taxi 20 bucks a head to get to Granada. So we decided to go see if there were any buses anyway. so we left the safety of the lights and polizia and headed to the bus terminal.

FUN FACT :All the local buses in Nicaragua are old school buses painted up pimp style by the owners, called chicken buses.

Meanwhile were getting harassed by literally dozens of nicaraguans trying to get us into their taxis, but we somehow negotched a bus on its way to managua to take the detour and drop us in granada, ten bucks, no  bigie. as we're waiting for the bus to leave when the guy tells us we could get into his friends taxi and for another dollar we could leave right now. ok sounds good, until we realize hes an unoficial sketchy looking dude driving a tiny sedan. remember there's six of us. so no thank you. We grabbed our bags back out of the truck and got back on the bus. We have to change busses again for some reason but eventually we're out of there. still a litlle nervous though, and the guy driving this bus at 140km passing 18 wheelers didnt help. good thing you can smoke on the bus.

Anyway weve spent the last two days in Granada and its fantastic, tied one off last night for Dylans birthday, Ross and I ended up with some locals at a bar on the edge of town, communicating with a deaf dumb Nicaraguan ex soldier with a bullet hole in his leg, then driving on the back of motorcycles back to our hostel... Kvesche and I are going for 2 dollar haircuts.
anyway.
Finna giv´r still

Friday 7 December 2012

its a travel blerg.

Tommorow night I leave to the Buffalo Airport to catch a nights sleep and an 8 am plane to Charlotte, NC. A quick layover then on to Central America. I will spend a month between Nicaragua and Costa Rica free-walking volcanoes and fighting sharks..
In the event that the world doesn't end, on January third I'll be flying to Seattle to meet a certain illustrious creature, then together we go on to one of the most seemingly beautiful places on earth, Vietnam.
This blog exists to keep a track on things, I tend to lose journals.
stay posted. if you want.